Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Cooking is one of life's great joys. I'm not a great cook, but the more I learn about cooking the more comfortable I get...and sometimes that extra comfort leads to burning some shit.

I've always loved eating, but it wasn't until college that I fell in love with cooking for myself and my friends. It turns out that while your parents support you emotionally and financially (if you're lucky) they can't really be there to provide things like pot roast on Sundays, interesting pasta creations mid-week, or even a fridge stocked with condiments. So, rather than succumbing to a life fueled strictly by pizza pockets, the ambitious student begins to experiment.

The early experiments were more about utility than flavor, and often involved some combination of Carl Buddig meat products, ranch dressing, and tortillas. That worked ok for the fellas, but quickly fell out of favor making way for the more ambitious fare like fettuccine Alfredo which while still very basic, seemed to lend itself better to meals with the opposite sex.

Skipping ahead a good 10 years I marry an amazing woman who happens to be a much better cook than I am. So what does a food focused fella like myself do in a situation like this? Settle in for 50 years of the little missus' cooking, or try to do culinary battle by claiming the kitchen as my own? The answer is neither...I've opted to play a bit part in our kitchen production, typically chopping a bit of this or that, or doing the dishes (I challenge any of you to a dish duel...my skills are wicked.) I have however built a small portfolio of "signature dishes" that I whip up from time to time and here they are in no particular order:
  • "Sauce" On any Sunday afternoon in Kenmore during the rainy season (heh) you can find me in the kitchen working on some sort of hearty red sauce. I never do it the same way twice, but ask anyone who has tried it whether its good...it is. You can make it lots of ways, but I would include some combination of great canned tomatoes (you'll need to experiment here, but these are most likely imported and come from San Marzano Italy) combine these with fresh shallots, garlic, red wine, and olive oil. You then need to decide if this is going to be a meat-focused sauce or not. If so, you should have started by browning the meat (beef, Italian sausage, or chicken sausage.) This sauce will require some serious simmering time so leave it on the stove for as long as you can (hours.) lastly you should top a meat sauce with a dollop of ricotta, and a veg sauce with good Parmesan **hint-its not in a plastic tub**.
  • Lasagna. This one takes a lot of work, but my lasagna includes spicy chicken sausage, spinach, mushrooms, and a bunch of other great stuff. you want one? have a baby and i might swing by with one of these in hopes that you get a break from multi tasking
  • Spicy grilled prawns. I think this recipe is in Tom Douglas' Seattle Kitchens book, but I can't recall. you basically take some big-ass prawn, dip them in good olive oil (truth be told I am still trying to figure out how to source a high quality olive oil at a good price) you then chop fresh parsley, red pepper flakes, bread crumbs, and garlic together. throw in some salt and pepper, then coat the oily prawns with this multi-colored stuff and grill them briefly over a medium-hot grill. Don't overcook them.
  • Salmon. If you see some of my early blogs you'll see my whole salmon spread...its good if a little predictable
  • Patagonian Toothfish I'm not going to call it by it's real name 'cause some people think it is endangered, but it rhymes with "filetin' tree grass" and I only buy through reputable distributors. This one is easy. buy the biggest, fattest piece you can get your hands on, marinate it in a big zip loc with Yoshida's Teriyaki Sauce, some sliced Walla Walla onions, and a little garlic. Sear it on both sides, then place the fish on a bed of the sliced onions on some foil. leave it on the grill on fairly low heat for ~10 minutes (need to monitor based on thickness) pull it off the grill and let it rest before you eat it. pair it with the Conundrum, some fresh greens, and a sunny deck. Savor this meal and think about how freakin' lucky you are to have a Whole Foods nearby.

So this past Saturday I broke out of my rut...I decided to try some new things. To be fair, some of the things were not really new (steak) but Emily felt like a filet so who am I to argue? Here's what I made:

appetizer: crab/artichoke spread on plain crackers with Prosecco (just ok)

starter/side: Dungeness crab and spot prawn mac and cheese! (ridiculous)

side: asparagus with chanterelle mushrooms, tarragon, shallots, and butter (nice)

main: prime aged filet mignon topped with morel/chanterelle cream sauce

all paired with a bottle of 2000 Elderton Shiraz. In a word, amazing.

Unfortunately my ability to multitask is limited so I overcooked the steaks, but the rest was a work of art. I kind of got the cooking thing out of my system for a while now, so the Pagliacci hotline is pretty much my go-to recipe this week.

Bon appetite!

Monday, October 29, 2007

When good restaurants go bad!

Kinda Jerry Springer eh? Or maybe Maury Povich...

Regardless, this installment in my critically ignored drone about food and beverage is all about restaurants that had "it" and lost "it". I'm sure you've experienced this sort of thing; a place you enjoy thoroughly once (or many times) that becomes a little too proud of their success and begins to slip.

As you may know if you've read my rants before, I am a creature of habit. For me a new restaurant experience is exciting and fun, but a restaurant that consistently performs is something to be revered.


Recently I had a chance to visit two restaurants that I've enjoyed in the past and was disappointed by both. These two restaurants are very different, yet occupy a similar place in the value chain for me...known quantities...places you go when you want a "sure thing." Turns out their status has changed.


#1 "my nyc neighborhood Italian joint" Puttanesca has been a favorite for a couple years. Its casual, comfortable, tasty, open late, and is a short walk from the hotel I frequent when I come to NYC. Historically I've been treated to prompt service, great food, and a reasonable price tag...but the last two times I've visited it has been sub-par.

About two weeks ago I went to Puttanesca on a Tuesday night. It was lively but not overly crowded. I was seated quickly then ignored for about 15 minutes. When my server did appear I got indifferent service and he went away for five more minutes before I got a glass of wine.

Next came the basket of bread... which did not include their foccacia which I love, but rather some very stale wonderbread-like rolls. My entree, a squid-ink pasta dish was bland and luke-warm, and the same waiter spilled a glass of wine on the woman next to me.

This single instance does not mean I won't go back...but they are currently in limbo as far as my "go to" restaurant status...stay tuned to learn their fate.


#2 The Slanted Door is a fairly famous San Francisco restaurant featuring Vietnamese food with a twist. Although I can't say I frequent the Slanted Door, I have been a few times and I fondly remember the first time I enjoyed lettuce cups at the "old" Slanted Door location and found myself very disappointed when I visited last week.

My wife and I made a reservation for Sunday dinner last week. The current location in the Ferry Building is fantastic and worth a trip. We strolled down the Embarcadero, peeked in the many interesting food and wine shops in the Ferry Building, then checked in for our dinner at the 'door.

We were seated a bit late at an extremely small table. Our waitress was attentive at first, then disappeared for the evening. The food was uninspiring, under-seasoned, and served without any explanation. to tell you the truth, I don't even recall what I ate. We left without finishing and agreed that we probably will not go back. With so many great restaurants in SF, why waste time with one that clearly has let it's reputation go to it's head?


On a more positive note, Arby's has been running their tried and true "5 for 5.95" promo recently and from what I can tell they still deliver the goods.


Cheers


-Scott

Monday, October 1, 2007

Laguna on a budget

This past weekend Emily and I had a chance to visit Laguna Beach and I've gotta say it is a very nice place to spend a weekend.


It almost seems too perfect; Ferraris at every stoplight, perfectly tanned, tucked, and tailored "clone-people" cruising around (who make it very hard to concentrate), and a plethora of great culinary options!


I'll get to the eating shortly, but I want to touch on the "budget" idea covered in the title...this is sarcasm, plain and simple. If you want to find a budget beach vacation, go to Ocean Shores 'cause Laguna is not about "deals." Lucky for us we have some very generous friends who let us tag along for their weekend away, otherwise I'm not sure I could have dealt with the sticker shock. I'll leave it at that.

So back to the food! There are a TON of great restaurants in this area ranging from taco stands to very high end establishments. I enjoy both ends of the spectrum (and all points in between) so lets just say I had a great time.


Driving down the PCH its hard to miss the many fish-focused restaurants, Mexican joints, and of course the obligatory California cuisine. Lucky for us our host had some great recommendations in hand so we didn't have to guess!


We arrived Friday evening and the plan was already in place. We drop our bags, open some very good wine (our contribution to the weekend) jump in the resort's Lexus SUV, and head to 230 Forest Ave . This place looks like many other casual restaurants; crowded bar, some outdoor tables, kind of cramped. But once we sat down and took a look at the menu we knew we'd found a gem.



The first thing that caught my eye was the Lobster Alfredo. Shortly after that my forearm whisked by my right love handle and steered me away from this decadent entree, but one of our party ended up ordering it and gave it rave reviews.
I had the Ono special and some lobster mashed potatoes washed down with a wonderful Cakebread Cellars Sauv Blanc.
I could probably go on about everyone's entrees, but I won't bore you. All you need to know about this place is it is very good, very busy, and pretty reasonable. They have a nice wine list with several great wines by the glass, the service was excellent, and I am positive we will go back.

The next evening we went out for an amazing Mexican meal. We're not talking Azteca here, this is interesting Mexican food and drink. Javier's Cantina is a bustling, loud, electric scene complete with some of SoCal's most enhanced patrons.
Most of our crew enjoyed the house margaritas; rocks, salt, Sauza...very well done indeed. The entrees run from the run of the mill enchilada platter to some very interesting meat dishes with complex sauces, spices, and sides. I very much wanted to figure out how to get back there for a follow-up meal but couldn't swing it.

So the bottom line is this: if your friends invite you to join them in Laguna, take them up on it and get ready to enjoy yourself!

Cheers

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Los Taco Trucks


If you ask me what I'm most inspired by lately I'd have to say my crazy wife...and I mean that in the most positive way! Crazy as in always having ten things going on, bringing people together, keeping our house from falling down, building a business, and making sure we have plenty of fun!

But if you asked me what kind of food inspires me right now I'd have to say Tortas! These tasty Mexican sandwiches somehow eluded me for more than three decades, then all of a sudden they appear miraculously to brighten up my life. So what's so special about a sandwich you ask?

Let me count the ways I love the Torta...
  1. Flavor. These things are not dainty, bland, boring fare...they have spice, flavor, and substance!

  2. Size. Don't let anyone tell you a Torta is a snack, 'cause you will pay dearly. Come hungry and be ready for a little Costanza-style napping under your desk

  3. Intrigue. There is a very good chance there will be ingredients on your Torta you cannot identify, and a 100% chance you won't be able to pronounce them

  4. Location. the taco truck is pervasive. Check THIS out!

  5. Value. I like to go to the truck in Kenmore at 80th and Bothell Way where I get a SWEET Torta Hawaiiana with chipotle relish for $5.50 all in.

In case you want to visit the epicenter of the north end taco truck revolution:


TAQUERIA EL TACONAZO
Where: 8002 Bothell Way N.E.; north side of Bothell Way Northeast and 80th Avenue Northeast at Kenmore Texaco Star Mart
What: Fairly new taco wagon serving tacos, tortas and burritos; no outdoor tables or chairs Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
What's good: Tortas!
Contact: No phone

Friday, June 15, 2007

Copper What?


Anybody out there like Salmon? If you're sitting there nodding your head then I guess this is just about your favorite time of year!

Any salmon aficionado knows that in May and June the Copper River salmon run, and it is known for being the best example of the breed.
I really can't say that I'm a die-hard fan of the Copper River salmon, in fact I've often said that the Copper River marketing folks are absolutely brilliant since they've created this amazing brand for a product that isn't really that different or special. This year I think I've changed my mind however.
Last night we had a small dinner party and since we've had enough great steaks and it is Copper River season we figured we'd try our hand at a Tom Douglas-themed meal.
If you haven't been, you really need to check out Tom's restaurant Etta's which is adjacent to Pike Place Market, and where he serves his best fish dishes.
We started out with an appetizer Emily invented. She took chunks of watermelon, drained them, then skewered them with toothpicks, added prosciutto, and a small chunk of Grana Padano cheese, then drizzled aged balsamic over them and nestled it all in a bed of watercress. **IMPORTANT** If you are going to do this, don't try to substitute some sort of Stella shrink-wrapped bullshit cheese either, you gotta have some really good cheese and the GP is the one. Tasty!
For dinner we had the Copper River of course, some little squashes, and Tom D's cornbread pudding hint: you don't have to use heavy cream. try 2%, your arteries will thank you.
Here's how I did the salmon:
-I bought about 2.5 pounds of Copper River Sockeye to feed six adults
-Portioned the fish in equal yet delightfully robust pieces
-Coated the pieces with Tom D's "rub with love" about two hours before grilling
-Soaked cedar planks for two hours before grilling
-Preheated the grill to 500
-Put the planks on the hot grill five minutes before touchdown
-Once the planks start smoking/smelling i pull them, oil the grill
-Sear the top of each salmon portion for about a minute
-Pull the fish off the grill, put the planks back on, then put the fish skin-down on the planks
-Close the lid, cook for eight minutes
-Pull the fish, put it on a large cookie sheet, and tent loosely with foil for a few minutes
The result was one of the best meals I've ever had...seriously! The flavors go together so nicely, and the Copper River was flaky, moist, flavorful, and has a little extra fatty goodness.
We paired the meal with a very nice Pinot Noir from New Zealand called Amisfield and it went perfectly with the meal. I highly recommend this wine, and it may very well be available at your local Costco!
To top off our "Tom D at home" experience we served the famous coconut cream pie from Dahlia Bakery and basked in our fullness.
So if you are interested in trying Copper River salmon, and you're not in a region where it is readily available, I suggest you look up our friends at Wild Alaska Salmon Company. Sara can ship you fresh salmon straight from Alaska overnight!
Cheers

Monday, June 11, 2007

What is BBQ 2U?

Do you love barbecue? or is it bar-b-que?
Any way you slice it, I like bbq. I like to eat it, cook it, even type it. It just feels good.
I've been enjoying some bbq lately and I imagine you're probably doing the same.
I thought I'd share some of my recent discoveries and favorite things about the big bbq season.

You know what? it turns out nobody likes chicken that's black and crispy on the outside and cold and salmonella-y on the inside. That's where slow cooking comes in!
I recently had a little dinner thing (or my wife did and I was a key contributor?) anyway we decided we'd go old school and have chicken...complete with bones and skin no less!
In anticipation of the event I broke out the trusty barbecue bible (thanks ian and julie for the fine wedding gift that i'm still using!) some great recipes and directions on cooking fast or slow.

I called my friend Matthew who happens to be a chef (the real deal) and an amazing barbecue-ist (heh) Matthew played Master Po to my Caine as I walked the earth searching for moist poultry and left me with this tidbit...use a subtle marinade of olive oil, rosemary, lemon zest, and red pepper flakes. Do not be shy about the oil. Do not salt and pepper until 30 minutes before cooking. do not baste with a sugary sauce until you are almost done cooking. All of this was very important advice indeed.

Have you tried cooking with a little smoke? no, i don't mean breaking out the phatty before you fire up the grill, i mean using wood chips or pellets to enhance the flavor of your meat while cooking! I tried some apple wood pellets and I was pretty pleased with the results.

So here's the blow by blow:

-Chicken pieces; breasts, legs, thighs etc
-marinate in olive oil, lemon zest, rosemary, red pepper flakes for as little as two or as much as 24 hours
-heat grill to medium, then turn off the section you will be cooking on (indirect method) leaving the other burner(s) on
-Salt and pepper the chicken before putting on the grill
-Place chicken on grill, turning occasionally. Cook for ~75 minutes at 325ish
-At the 55 minute mark bust out the bbq sauce. baste the bird every five minutes 'til done
-Remove pieces and place on a platter, loosely tented with foil
-Serve with some piping hot cornbread, potato salad with the skin left on/tossed with blue cheese, and some sort of greens

Some other recent barbecue victories:
  1. Opah . Do not confuse this fish with the popular talk show host, its just not nice. Grilled this one up over the weekend. Its like a tuna steak that smells less like tuna. i really like it.
  2. Scallops wrapped with bacon. This could not be easier. Get some bacon. wrap the biggest scallops you can find with it. secure it with a **wooden** toothpick (don't ask) and grill over medium heat for about 10 minutes. AMAZING
  3. Northwest Exclusive steaks. Yeah, its kind of like saying "my kid is the cutest" but the reality is my steaks are better than yours. Check out the fathers day special which includes a couple killer, aged, prime ribeyes and a bottle of Stevens 424 red blend. I'd like to receive this little gift but since I'm only dad to a yellow lab and he doesn't have any money I don't think I'll be getting one.
  4. Great bbq technology. Have you noticed what's going on with the grill these days? Its like some sort of bbq renaissance! If you don't have 62,000 BTUs and 830 inches of cooking area you are just not a player. For great value in grills, I like Vermont Castings which are available at your local Home Depot.

So there ya go, there's my early-season take on bbq. Now get out there and grill.

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

Go north young man

So you're looking for a fantastic meal eh? I'm not talking about your run of the mill, generic, faceless, uninspiring yet sufficient fare that is readily available in any town of size. I'm talking about the kind of meal that you can really dig into literally and figuratively.

For those of you who know me, you know I have a pretty big place in my heart reserved for Whistler. Two massive and very different mountains featuring the most amazing lift-serviced terrain on earth, which funnels you down into an array of pubs, clubs, spas, and of course restaurants.

I could probably write all day about my dining experiences in Whistler Village, but this entry is all about a little place you can't walk to from the lifts, the Rimrock Cafe
I have eaten at the Rimrock about a half dozen times. Not every visit has been "A+" but it has always been WAY better than average.

Last weekend after a long day of setting tile and moving furniture, Emily and I went to the Rimrock for a late dinner. They just happened to be running their off-season prix fixe promotion which pretty much means three courses for the price of an entree.

Here's the blow-by-blow for my favorite meal of spring 2007 (excludes anything cooked by my wife or enjoyed with my mother)
  1. Wine list is fantastic. Washington, Oregon, BC, California, French, Italian, Spanish, Argentinian, Chilean, and of course that wonderful wine-producing commonwealth country Australia are all well represented. I really like the fact that they have interesting wines from $38 CAD/bottle through $500+. Regardless of your taste or specific situation they have a wine for you. I knew I'd be enjoying some sort of game so I went straight for an Aussie Cab from Pirramimma that blew Em and I away. A great big bomb of a cab with subtle yet firm tannins, big cherry/berry flavors that give way to a nice smooth finish.
  2. So many great starter choices, and the list changes daily. I chose to start with an iceberg wedge salad topped with Gorgonzola, grilled pears, and candied/spiced pecans. Its like they know me!
  3. Next I dove into the lobster and scallop ceviche. very simple preparation, lots of garlic, lime, cilantro, and of course super fresh fish. WOW
  4. Then comes the real deal. This is why I go to the Rimrock....Mixed Grill! Lamb Chop, beef tenderloin (blue rare) and caribou. This is not for the faint of heart my friends, nor is it for anyone on a diet. While no single portion is large, the combination is pretty much deadly.
  5. We finished up with the sticky pudding which I really can't describe very well, but its sticky, sweet, and absolutely worth the trip. I paired this course with a snifter of Armagnac (paying homage to Peter Morse if you're out there) which was clearly not in the same league as the one he shared with me a couple years back.

The service was exceptional, the vibe casual yet comfortable, and the company was perfect. Pretty hard not to love a meal like that.

So while Whistler remains a ski town for most, it deserves a trip in any season and those who visit during the off season will be rewarded with surprises like the Rimrock's seasonal promo.